Global Policy Forum

By Laurence Iliff

Once generally criticized as a symbol of American economic imperialism and culinary mediocrity, McDonald's restaurants can now be found in nearly every major Mexican city. In one, however, some worried activists are trying to draw the line.

Plans to open a toned-down Golden Arches in the colonial arcades of the central plaza in Oaxaca City are pitting local cultural groups against businessmen, with the city government stuck firmly in between.

The plaza, or zocalo, has been designated "patrimony of humanity" by the United Nations Education, Scientific and Cultural Organization, or UNESCO. Oaxaca City is the capital of the heavily Indian state in southern Mexico by the same name. Analysts said this is the latest skirmish over globalization in a nation that has gone from zero McDonald's in 1984 to 250 today. An additional 65 are slated to open this year, and 85 in 2003. About 10 million Mexicans eat at McDonald's every month, the company said.

Despite its success, the chain still has its critics.

"McDonald's used to be the symbol of American imperialism, but it's now a symbol of globalization, and that causes a lot of anxiety among some Mexicans," said Homero Aridjis, a novelist and commentator on cultural issues. "It's a contradiction because these U.S. chains are very successful, but their success affects our cultural heritage."

In Oaxaca City, opponents of the new restaurant in the city square said their beef with McDonald's is only indirectly about globalization. Mostly, it is about protecting the image of a colonial jewel that draws tourists from all over the world.

"It's not that we're against putting a McDonald's in Oaxaca, because there already is one on the outskirts of the city," said Luisa Arellanes, a member of PRO-OAX, a Oaxaca group dedicated to preserving the city's culture. "But putting it in a plaza that represents our cultural heritage is not the right place."

The fast-food chain would hurt more traditional restaurants in the plaza and change its relaxed, colonial ambience, she said. Put elsewhere, the home of the Big Mac might even be welcomed for the jobs it creates, she said.

PRO-OAleader Francisco Toleda, a prominent painter, headed a unique protest last Sunday by handing out free tamales _ among Oaxaca's best-known foods. Local media said about 3,000 people ate tamales and listened to traditional music.

McDonald's said in a statement that its planned restaurant would respect all of the cultural and architectural requirements of the local, state and federal governments.

"In response to the worries expressed by some members of the Oaxaca community, McDonald's de Mexico reiterates its commitment to respect the cultural identity, laws and traditions of the communities where it operates," the statement said.

The company noted that McDonald's already has restaurants in the central plazas of other Mexican cities that have a similar cultural heritage. The proposed Oaxaca City restaurant would be housed in a colonial building next to City Hall. The use of certain lighting, materials and colors would be severely restricted, city authorities have said.

City officials said it would be two to three weeks before they decide whether to give McDonald's the thumbs up or thumbs down. Arturo Lopez Ramos, the chief spokesman for the city government and an author of three books on Oaxacan culture, said the city would sponsor a forum this weekend to debate the proposed McDonald's opening.

Activists opposed to the store, restaurant organizations for it, city officials and the public would be invited, Lopez said. "We need to find a way of defending our cultural heritage while respecting our own laws and encouraging the creation of new jobs," he said.

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